Dahua WizColor 5x59-PRO and SmartLight 5x59-IL new series

steve1225 said:
OMG...
Smooth Stream set to 100 don't work like this... like opposite..

This is ratio switch - between smooth (value 0) and clear (value 100)... default 50 is in the middle (half of both)...

Smooth (value 0) is giving more bandwidth for each frame (delta frames with small changes) in stream at a cost of bandwidth for I-frame (full image redrawn, every 1-2 seconds).
Clear (value 100 you setup) is giving more bandwidth for I-Frame (full image redrawn every 1-2 seconds) at a cost of all normal frames (delta frames with small changes)...

this setting is for pulsing problem.. so losing sharpness (especially on big textures like grass/asphalt or moving small object like greenery) in I-frame cycle (every 1-2 seconds)...

Values like 25 to 75 are OK depending on what sub problem you have.. Values at the ends creates more problems than solves..
Click to expand...

That is good to know, I can happily report it doesn't actually make much difference in the real world, at least not on the 54Pro during the day at least :thumb: So for a scene with passing vehicles taking approximately 25-30% of the image, my sub problems are not enough light and ghosting in low light/night, also inability to stop motion well in those conditions and later this evening a small helping of tearing/pixelation and general degradation I suspect :rofl: - well you did mention problems.

Joking aside, appreciate the explanation, any ideas on the ghosting issue are welcome, re the smoothing based on moving vehicles, do you think, closer to 75? vehicle passes through in around 1-2 seconds, current fps set to 25. Please note I want best quality freeze frame, zero interest in smooth video playback, ID of vehicle is king here.

I plan to suffer the low gain setting tonight and some noise to try and control other variables, see how that works out.
 
CamCrazy said:
That is good to know, I can happily report it doesn't actually make much difference in the real world, at least not on the 54Pro during the day at least :thumb: So for a scene with passing vehicles taking approximately 25-30% of the image, my sub problems are not enough light and ghosting in low light/night, also inability to stop motion well in those conditions and later this evening a small helping of tearing/pixelation and general degradation I suspect :rofl: - well you did mention problems.

Joking aside, appreciate the explanation, any ideas on the ghosting issue are welcome, re the smoothing based on moving vehicles, do you think, closer to 75? vehicle passes through in around 1-2 seconds, current fps set to 25. Please note I want best quality freeze frame, zero interest in smooth video playback, ID of vehicle is king here.

I plan to suffer the low gain setting tonight and some noise to try and control other variables, see how that works out.
Click to expand...

As mentioned many times, daytime with enough light isn't usually the concern. It is low light performance with motion we are after!
 
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CamCrazy said:
That is good to know, I can happily report it doesn't actually make much difference in the real world, at least not on the 54Pro during the day at least :thumb: So for a scene with passing vehicles taking approximately 25-30% of the image, my sub problems are not enough light and ghosting in low light/night, also inability to stop motion well in those conditions and later this evening a small helping of tearing/pixelation and general degradation I suspect :rofl: - well you did mention problems.

Joking aside, appreciate the explanation, any ideas on the ghosting issue are welcome, re the smoothing based on moving vehicles, do you think, closer to 75? vehicle passes through in around 1-2 seconds, current fps set to 25. Please note I want best quality freeze frame, zero interest in smooth video playback, ID of vehicle is king here.

I plan to suffer the low gain setting tonight and some noise to try and control other variables, see how that works out.
Click to expand...

define what you mean as ghosting.. any screenshot?
 
steve1225 said:
define what you mean as ghosting.. any screenshot?
Click to expand...

Sensitive location so not easy to screenshot. Essentially a 30% opacity duplicate of the vehicle rear end offset from the back of said vehicle, sometimes this 'ghosting' effect also happens where a similar duplicate also shows the front bumper overlayed onto the front part of the car bonnet (engine cover). If that makes sense.

Now darkness is falling I am getting pixelated multiples trails behind vehicles, combination between what looks like tearing and ghosting, I will try and capture the effect.
 
Make sure MD/SMD is turned off
 
CamCrazy said:
Sensitive location so not easy to screenshot. Essentially a 30% opacity duplicate of the vehicle rear end offset from the back of said vehicle, sometimes this 'ghosting' effect also happens where a similar duplicate also shows the front bumper overlayed onto the front part of the car bonnet (engine cover). If that makes sense.
Click to expand...

OK, that's ghosting.. some people call movement blur as ghosting so this is why I ask...

ghosting is created by 3D NR algorithm in SOC chip (not at sensor level).. 3D NR works that way - each video frame is "averaged" with a few previous ones to create brighter, less noised and more stable image...

Do magical things for static images.. but creates opacity ghosts for objects in movement..

3D NR you can limit in settings.. but this can increase noise in low light scenario...

you need to have lower noise, so lower gain or longer exposure... or simply have more light in scene..
 
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Any reason you aren't allowing the Iris to go full open?

I agree should not be necessary during the daylight (and smaller aperture is more DOF and the lens should be sharper) ... but any chance that makes a difference?
 
steve1225 said:
OK, that's ghosting.. some people call movement blur as ghosting so this is why I ask...

ghosting is created by 3D NR algorithm in SOC chip (not as sensor level).. 3D NR works that way - each video frame is "averaged" with a few previous ones to create brighter, less noised and more stable image...

Do magical things for static images.. but creates opacity ghosts for objects in movement..

3D NR you can limit in settings.. but this can increase noise in low light scenario...

you need to have lower noise, so lower gain or longer exposure... or simply have more light in scene..
Click to expand...

That is great, thank you kindly, your knowledge is most welcome here, please do not leave anytime soon!

OK, I will actually try 3D noise off altogether to experiment, this was on my list of things to try tonight! then adjust gain and exposure, trying to keep shutter between 2-4ms if possible, gain on 50 at the moment, pushing it for light levels. In reality I may just have to face that there is not enough ambient for this one, also cannot have flood assistance at this location sadly, although I have a 4K-T which will soon be creating some additional back lighting. Otherwise will just go to IR, shame since colour is nice for vehicle ID at night.
 
alekk said:
Any reason you aren't allowing the Iris to go full open?

I agree should not be necessary during the daylight (and smaller aperture is more DOF and the lens should be sharper) ... but any chance that makes a difference?
Click to expand...

I do have the iris wide open at this point, during the day not so much. Thanks for flagging, I am really fighting for light here, this is not a critical camera, more an overview, so I can suffer the quality if it gets me vehicle ID and colour I guess.

During the day I find this camera was responding when I dropped the gamma, giving more detail, less motion blur. Is there benefit or not to doing this at night also, did have it on 35, just pushed it back to 49 for trial run. If everyone owned white vehicles this job would be a lot easier :thumb:
 
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CamCrazy said:
That is great, thank you kindly, your knowledge is most welcome here, please do not leave anytime soon!

OK, I will actually try 3D noise off altogether to experiment, this was on my list of things to try tonight! then adjust gain and exposure, trying to keep shutter between 2-4ms if possible, gain on 50 at the moment, pushing it for light levels. In reality I may just have to face that there is not enough ambient for this one, also cannot have flood assistance at this location sadly, although I have a 4K-T which will soon be creating some additional back lighting. Otherwise will just go to IR, shame since colour is nice for vehicle ID at night.
Click to expand...

Those new AI-ISP based hybrid LEDs cams (34PRO, 54PRO) can do wonders to video performance at not so good light conditions... and also they can help a lot with IR or/and white LEDs onboard...

But always there is another better solution - simply put around house (or any other location) more classic white lights distributed every some distance...

on wall lights, ceiling lights, garden lights, path lights, fence lights, street lights etc..

HDR processing on those AI-ISP based cams solves a lot of problems we had in past with mixed high / medium / low light places in one video frame..
Now there is no need to use WDR now..
 
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CamCrazy said:
SMD is off, I have had MD on for some testing since IVS has been a bit poor for some reason, normally it is OK. What problems does the MD and SMD cause?
Click to expand...

Just something In noticed on a few other cameras running SMD and IVS together. Had tearing and ghosting. Plain MD shouldnt effect
 
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steve1225 said:
Those new AI-ISP based hybrid LEDs cams (34PRO, 54PRO) can do wonders to video performance at not so good light conditions... and also they can help a lot with IR or/and white LEDs onboard...

But always there is another better solution - simply put around house (or any other location) more classic white lights distributed every some distance...

on wall lights, ceiling lights, garden lights, path lights, fence lights, street lights etc..

HDR processing on those AI-ISP based cams solves a lot of problems we had in past with mixed high / medium / low light places in one video frame..
Now there is no need to use WDR now..
Click to expand...

Due to the road running close to the property it is a tough call, this camera is about 20 feet up looking down, so is more like a street light. Getting other ambient here will be tough but the planned 4K-T would be 'ground' level and about 15 feet from road, which might help somewhat. Any other suggestions you have that I might have missed for best night time chances with this cam, please feel free to mention. I feel that I've got most of the usual suspects logged now, does MD and SMD cause performance issues?
 
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steve1225 said:
Those new AI-ISP based hybrid LEDs cams (34PRO, 54PRO) can do wonders to video performance at not so good light conditions... and also they can help a lot with IR or/and white LEDs onboard...

But always there is another better solution - simply put around house (or any other location) more classic white lights distributed every some distance...

on wall lights, ceiling lights, garden lights, path lights, fence lights, street lights etc..

HDR processing on those AI-ISP based cams solves a lot of problems we had in past with mixed high / medium / low light places in one video frame..
Now there is no need to use WDR now..
Click to expand...


And we're back to "add light". my favorite solution ;)
 
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CamCrazy said:
Due to the road running close to the property it is a tough call, this camera is about 20 feet up looking down, so is more like a street light. Getting other ambient here will be tough but the planned 4K-T would be 'ground' level and about 15 feet from road, which might help somewhat. Any other suggestions you have that I might have missed for best night time chances with this cam, please feel free to mention. I feel that I've got most of the usual suspects logged now, does MD and SMD cause performance issues?
Click to expand...

See my reply above.

I'm pretty sure on the two cameras I saw this it was because they were relatively low powered. RAM. But doesnt sound like its your issue
 
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CamCrazy said:
I do have the iris wide open at this point, during the day not so much. Thanks for flagging, I am really fighting for light here, this is not a critical camera, more an overview, so I can suffer the quality if it gets me vehicle ID and colour I guess.

During the day I find this camera was responding when I dropped the gamma, giving more detail, less motion blur. Is there benefit or not to doing this at night also, did have it on 35, just pushed it back to 49 for trial run. If everyone owned white vehicles this job would be a lot easier :thumb:
Click to expand...
How wide at night ? %
 
I defer to others more knowledgeable, but since you are running a pretty high bit rate, maybe reduce the FPS from 25 to 15 to reduce the load on the camera CPU.

Ideally that would not make any difference ... but at least for testing purposes, maybe worth trying.
 
alekk said:
I defer to others more knowledgeable, but since you are running a pretty high bit rate, maybe reduce the FPS from 25 to 15 to reduce the load on the camera CPU.

Ideally that would not make any difference ... but at least for testing purposes, maybe worth trying.
Click to expand...

Might give that a go, tried dropping to 15 during daytime testing, no difference I could see, at this point, I will take anything I can get!
 
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