Dahua WizColor 5x59-PRO and SmartLight 5x59-IL new series

I use DMSS but you don’t get IVS rules overlay
I use DSCAM (Synology) for viewing, works great. I can see all the Tripwire snapshots and the LIVE view or NVR view for any time frame recorded.

I'm looking for the ability to log into the T54PRO directly via iPhone and see the LIVE view with the object overlays for IVS.

I tried Safari, Firefox, and a few others with the LIVE view just spinning. I only tried for a short time last night, but figured would check here if anyone has a favorite iPhone browser that works.

It will be much easier to walk around the house with my iPhone than bringing my MacBook outside all the time for testing.
 
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Sounds like you had some work on there! with an IT/networking background, you will be fine tuning these in, work on one first then dial those settings to the other once happy. Tweak from there, normally you will get similar settings for most with minor adjustments for night depending on location and assistive ambient.
Oh yeah, it took a while to get all 5 cameras from China, configured, and then setup and hardened for winter, in their final spot, but 100% done now. They look great.

I've been reading all of your posts and others, much appreciated. I'd love to just leave AUTO everything with AI SSA 24x7, but that just seems unrealistic from all the comments here.

To my wife or a non-experienced person the images look pretty good, but I'm thinking perfection is what I'm after most likely. :)

On my MacBook or iPhone, I'm mostly just checking the snapshots a few times per day, not much LIVE viewing.

For LIVE, I mostly use the Streamie app on the Apple TV 4K to the 4K TV in the Family Room and my Office. All 5 cameras on the large screen, with the primary front camera upper left on the screen and the other 4 cameras around the sides & bottom, and then I click on any of the 5 to make it full screen on the large 4K TV. Right now with AUTO everything it looks fairly nice.

I'm running all 5 cameras in 2688x1520, 30 FPS, VBR, Quality BEST, Max Bit Rate 16128, I Frame 60. I should probably start here and maybe tweak?

I see others reference running 15 FPS with CBR and I Frame 30 ... it's not a good idea to run VBR with a high max bit rate? I've always run VBR with a fairly clean image.

I would like to post some images and video here but I need to get past my privacy/security concerns. :)
 
By the way, on the IVS, I just updated the firmware.bin with the 10/28 package for a 3rd time and it seems to be working.
Apparently when you update the main FW even the same FW thats on it, the algorithms are still messed up unless you upload firmware.bin again.

I am currently running 8 sensitivity and same on global
 
Oh yeah, it took a while to get all 5 cameras from China, configured, and then setup and hardened for winter, in their final spot, but 100% done now. They look great.

I've been reading all of your posts and others, much appreciated. I'd love to just leave AUTO everything with AI SSA 24x7, but that just seems unrealistic from all the comments here.

To my wife or a non-experienced person the images look pretty good, but I'm thinking perfection is what I'm after most likely. :)

On my MacBook or iPhone, I'm mostly just checking the snapshots a few times per day, not much LIVE viewing.

For LIVE, I mostly use the Streamie app on the Apple TV 4K to the 4K TV in the Family Room and my Office. All 5 cameras on the large screen, with the primary front camera upper left on the screen and the other 4 cameras around the sides & bottom, and then I click on any of the 5 to make it full screen on the large 4K TV. Right now with AUTO everything it looks fairly nice.

I'm running all 5 cameras in 2688x1520, 30 FPS, VBR, Quality BEST, Max Bit Rate 16128, I Frame 60. I should probably start here with maybe tweaking.

I see others reference running 15 FPS with CBR and I Frame 30 ... it's not a good idea to run VBR with a high max bit rate. I've always run VBR with a fairly clean image.

I would like to post some images and video here but I need to get past my privacy/security concerns. :)

Never been a fan of Dahua's VBR implementation. I run as do many, CBR and always match iframe to FPS
 
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Oh yeah, it took a while to get all 5 cameras from China, configured, and then setup and hardened for winter, in their final spot, but 100% done now. They look great.

I've been reading all of your posts and others, much appreciated. I'd love to just leave AUTO everything with AI SSA 24x7, but that just seems unrealistic from all the comments here.

To my wife or a non-experienced person the images look pretty good, but I'm thinking perfection is what I'm after most likely. :)

On my MacBook or iPhone, I'm mostly just checking the snapshots a few times per day, not much LIVE viewing.

For LIVE, I mostly use the Streamie app on the Apple TV 4K to the 4K TV in the Family Room and my Office. All 5 cameras on the large screen, with the primary front camera upper left on the screen and the other 4 cameras around the sides & bottom, and then I click on any of the 5 to make it full screen on the large 4K TV. Right now with AUTO everything it looks fairly nice.

I'm running all 5 cameras in 2688x1520, 30 FPS, VBR, Quality BEST, Max Bit Rate 16128, I Frame 60. I should probably start here and maybe tweak?

I see others reference running 15 FPS with CBR and I Frame 30 ... it's not a good idea to run VBR with a high max bit rate? I've always run VBR with a fairly clean image.

I would like to post some images and video here but I need to get past my privacy/security concerns. :)

Perfection is a good target :clap: tend to aim for that one myself!

Keep FPS and iFrame matched, so 15FPS and iFrame 15, and so on, this gives best quality along with keeping bit rate high. Oh yes and CBR as noted by @bigredfish above.
 
Oh and I'm also H.264H ... seeing H seemed ok with many, ok?

Yes that is good:

H.264H
CBR
FPS matching iframe
Bitrate high as possible
-Manual shutter...
Gain low as possible, daytime 0-30, night 0-50 as guides
Shutter speed custom range 0-2 day and 0-4 night depending
NR again low as you can go, between 15-30, maybe even off depends on your preference and results

Pretty sure you have probably seen similar but always useful to have in short summary :idk:
 
Yes that is good:

H.264H
CBR
FPS matching iframe
Bitrate high as possible
-Manual shutter...
Gain low as possible, daytime 0-30, night 0-50 as guides
Shutter speed custom range 0-2 day and 0-4 night depending
NR again low as you can go, between 15-30, maybe even off depends on your preference and results

Pretty sure you have probably seen similar but always useful to have in short summary :idk:
Thanks! Yep, seen most of this here and other threads but it's always nice to see the summary again. I just changed the front main camera to 15 FPS, iFrame 15, and CBR 12K, for testing.

One other weird thing that's been bugging me since the first T54PRO ... with the Apple TV 4K, there's a slight stutter with a LIVE view full screen at what seems to be the I-Frame interval, 2 seconds, when I had 30 FPS with 60 I Frame. I've tried multiple Apple TV 4K apps, with the Streamie app my go-to app. Wonder if this is Apple TV specific. I thought it was an issue with the Streamie app then tried a totally different app with the same issue. When watching LIVE, and a car drives by, or it's windy with tree branches and leaves blowing, every 2 seconds the screen pauses for a nanosecond and then continues. I used the iPhone stop watch app yesterday and it was every 2 seconds exactly, when I had 30 FPS, I Frame 60. When I just change to 15/15 it's now every second, a slight stutter.

This is a great day to test! Raining hard, windy, and leaves blowing everywhere!
 
That’s the pulse of the full frame loading. See it on most cams if you look close enough.


These settings are about where I ended up. Very close to same as 5442s.
Difference is a brighter image with better dynamic range but with fine digital fuzz that can be pretty much mitigated during the day. A bit harder in low light

Seems you can run these 1-2ms faster than the 5442 and still maintain good brightness and less noise.

*Note mine is the AS fixed so In expect the ZE to be a bit tougher with the bigger FStop. we'll see
 
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That’s the pulse of the full frame loading. See it on most cams if you look close enough.
It was not noticeable with 5442 or 5231 on same TV, and not noticeable on LIVE view via browser, or Synology full screen on computer screen. Only on the Apple TV 4K for me.
 
Are you viewing main stream or substream on it?

It has a habit of "settling down" and much has to do with the scene and multiple complex fine details, like trees with leaves and grass.
Enough NR and shutter you can make it all but disappear. Higher bitrates help as can lower frame rates.

Its there, its a matter of minimizing it


 
All five T54PRO's are now in place.
[Good summary of all the work that went into it]
I initially set all five cameras to 24x7 Color and it was wild how bright the two side cameras and the backyard were compared to the 5231's, but that was a complete failure. :) It dropped the frame rate to below 13FPS at night and when I walked around the house last night the video was terrible with motion, just not enough light especially on one of the sides

Wish I had one of you experts to just come over and set these five up to be perfect! While I'm very computer/networking experienced (my profession), video hasn't been my thing, at least not yet.

GREAT writeup @Sixto and sounds to me like I would like YOU to come over to setup my cameras! ;-)

It sounds like you have some decent light on the side and backyard ... so you might try manual settings, iris=100 (of course), and crank the gain ... to see what shutter speed you can get. For grins, I would start with gain=65 (image really falls apart in my experience after that) and if you can run more than a decent shutter speed, then adjust gain downward. Obviously that much gain is not desirable (and you'll need some NR applied) ... but it's a simple way to answer if the camera sensor/lens/processing is capable of doing a decent exposure with whatever light you have there.

Also, as you zoom in, the aperture closes down ... so if it's possible to zoom out a bit, you may find the image gets brighter.

I actually did some testing of that several days ago - just haven't gotten around to posting yet - also includes data on FOV versus zoom number.
 
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By the way, on the IVS, I just updated the firmware.bin with the 10/28 package for a 3rd time and it seems to be working.
Apparently when you update the main FW even the same FW thats on it, the algorithms are still messed up unless you upload firmware.bin again.

I am currently running 8 sensitivity and same on global
What is global sens for? I have ivs on 10 and global at 5.
 
Are you viewing main stream or substream on it?

It has a habit of "settling down" and much has to do with the scene and multiple complex fine details, like trees with leaves and grass.
Enough NR and shutter you can make it all but disappear. Higher bitrates help as can lower frame rates.

Its there, its a matter of minimizing it


the main stream to the TV. Will read what you posted.

So I've been comparing the Front left camera, which I changed to 15/15, CBR w/12K bitrate, 2ms Shutter to the Front right which is still 30/60, VBR, and AI SSA.

Not sure that I can tell the difference! :) (LIVE)

But I really need to play and study this for more than the hour that I've been playing.

I have both up on the 65" 4K screen with me standing a foot away comparing as I swap between the two.

A ton of rain and wind and motion so maybe the VBR is staying high ... Synology will show the bitrate second to second so I need to look.

The UPS guy just delivered a package and I'm thinking the CBR looked cleaner as I look at the recording from both the right (CBR) and left (VBR).

Lots and lots of testing to come. And there's nighttime to check out as well.
 
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GREAT writeup @Sixto and sounds to me like I would like YOU to come over to setup my cameras! ;-)

It sounds like you have some decent light on the side and backyard ... so you might try manual settings, iris=100 (of course), and crank the gain ... to see what shutter speed you can get. For grins, I would start with gain=65 (image really falls apart in my experience after that) and if you can run more than a decent shutter speed, then adjust gain downward. Obviously that much gain is not desirable (and you'll need some NR applied) ... but it's a simple way to answer if the camera sensor/lens/processing is capable of doing a decent exposure with whatever light you have there.

Also, as you zoom in, the aperture closes down ... so if it's possible to zoom out a bit, you may find the image gets brighter.

I actually did some testing of that several days ago - just haven't gotten around to posting yet - also includes data on FOV versus zoom number.
Yes, 4 of the 5 cameras have good light at night.

The two front cameras on the left and the right of the front stoop facing opposite directions down the street (towards the stoop) have the light from the two 75 watt bulbs on the front stoop. The left side of the house (long driveway) has a bright spotlight from my neighbor next door not far away, and the backyard has a 100 watt bulb that lights up most of the yard. The other side of the house (right side) has zero lighting nearby, other than across the street. At first in Color mode last night compared to the 5231 it looked amazing ... with the naked eye it was black on that side of the house, but the camera view was super bright and colorful ... I thought wow ... UNTIL I walked thru the area and OMG the motion was terrible, I was invisible a some points! With IR it's crystal clear but I need to further test tonight. The whole property is 60/100, with a rectangular house.
 
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Yes, 4 of the 5 cameras have good light at night.

The two front cameras on the left and the right of the front stoop facing opposite directions down the street (towards the stoop) have the light from the two 75 watt bulbs on the front stoop. The left side of the house (long driveway) has a bright spotlight from my neighbor next door not far away, and the backyard has a 100 watt bulb that lights up most of the yard. The other side of the house (right side) has zero lighting nearby, other than across the street. At first in Color mode last night compared to the 5231 it looked amazing ... with the naked eye it was black on that side of the house, but the camera view was super bright and colorful ... I thought wow ... UNTIL I walked thru the area and OMG the motion was terrible, I was invisible a some points! With IR it's crystal clear but I need to further test tonight. The whole property is 60/100, with a rectangular house.

Yes, VBR was just not for me, I find it tends to react too slowly if there is critical motion before quality picks up, this depends on the scene maybe, you mileage may vary. As you have seen in 'auto' mode or similar, images look amazing until something moves, then it all collapses :)

You also have the background colour effect, by which I mean wall colours, paving, roads etc. Light colours will be less 'absorbent' and the IR or LED's will appear to boost the image. Darker colours will absorb the light and hence require more ambient. This effect is far more prominent with IR, if you have a tarmac type road surface which is essentially black, with low IR lighting it will almost disappear, where as the foliage or building around it which are lighter in colour will literally pop. Grass tends to light up pretty well with IR, generally speaking, I have some 5442's which look out in the the night over grass areas with zero ambient and look pretty amazing! Running colour at night on these 54Pro's can require additional lighting, depending on distance to subject and area being covered.
 
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It wasn't clear @Sixto what your settings were for the first testing ... so I'm just suggesting you "push" the camera to see if it's even a possible (at full iris and "reasonable" gain) to get up the shutter speed up to a reasonable value to capture motion - probably at least 1/50s.

If so, then you can go down the tuning rabbit-hole to try to find a combination that work "adequately" for your motion capture needs.

If not, then you either gotta add more light ... or go to IR - are you using onboard illumination?
 
1/50?

Wow, anything slower than 1/120 usually won’t freeze motion or reduce blur much for me at night even with decent ambient light
 
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1/50?

Wow, anything slower than 1/120 usually won’t freeze motion or reduce blur much for me at night even with decent ambient light
Indeed, 1/120 or even 1/250 would be my go to on most IP cams, the 54Pro for me is actually running at 1/500 or faster :wow: :wtf: but I like my motion properly frosty!