Dahua WizColor 5x59-PRO and SmartLight 5x59-IL new series
- Thread starter steve1225
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One more time: from WHAT?
you should have AI rectangles which shows what object created a alarm..
any screenshots / videos with AI rectangles?
bigredfish
Known around here
Exactly what I said and showed.
I would be careful with Shutter Prio, it tends to bump gain to the point of a very noisy image
Once from the car tire that was recognized and next to the plant on the object. However, I no longer use Intrusion, only the lines.
bigredfish
Known around here
I use both in a number of scenes, particularly larger open spaces
In many cases have sense - especially to differentiate different things (street vs plot, people entrance by gates etc).
But not so much on this one (lots of "objects" happening on the scene...)
@Chokolinho didn't answer what objects invoked those intrusions.. so I'm shooting with possibilities
Sorry, wasn't trying to double up, possibly hadn't seen yours at that point
Yes shutter priority can work better in some locations than other, also could be camera specific to some degree, I use it on a couple of mine, other are full manual.
bigredfish
Known around here
I just haven’t had any luck with it. It creates a beautiful static image, but movement becomes “holy dancing pixels Batman!”
Has anyone compared the FOV of the (new) T54PRO-AS (fixed 2.8 & 3.6mm) to the T54PRO-ZE ... and gotten the "equivalent" numbers?
AS specs (fixed focal) are:
2.8 mm: H: 111°; V: 60°; D: 135°
3.6 mm: H: 95°; V: 51°; D: 114°
ZE specs (vari-focal) are:
H: 114°–48°; V: 59°–27°; D: 143°–56°
So for the AS-2.8mm, the ZE at "0 zoom" should be pretty close ... albeit kinda strange that the ZE has more horizontal FOV and less vertical - maybe different lens distortion?
For the AS-3.6mm, would it be expected that the ZE "zoom equivalent" would be be similar to what @tmxv4128 wrote about the 4M-T being 137?
Can anybody with the AS and ZE do a quick test and report back?
Former police detective here. This is a mistake. Always take your best shot at deterrence over getting good video. Always.
Criminals like to work in the dark. When we interviewed them, we always asked how they selected houses. One of the common themes is that they look for dark places and avoid light.
I SMH at some of the guys with IR illuminators. We only use them for situations where there is a neighbor problem and/or ALPR stuff. They have no clue what happens.
Let's suppose that you have solid videos and the cops recognize the guy the instant you show them the video. It's not getting you your stuff back. Whatever they stole from you was likely sold for drug money an hour after they left with it. Depending on your jurisdiction, you may have to show up in court 5-10 times over the next year. Fail to show once and the case gets dropped.
At best, after taking off five days of work, the DA arrives at a deal where the guy pays you $20/month for four years. Until he gets locked up a few more times, gets sent up top, and you get nothing because he's behind bars.
We do massive floodlights. No big box store nonsense. Motion with RAB brand sensors for residential. Always on for commercial.
Always take deterrence first.
CCTVCam
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- Sep 25, 2017
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Just put up a decorative lamp with a 400 lumen bulb on a dusk to dawn sensor like I did. It only needs an LED of around 5-6w so wan't cost much to run. That way you never have total darkness. It also means if for any reason the iVS trips don't get tripped, the background recording will record the event and although dark it should be easily usable.
This is a 4KT image from my yard at night. Total darkness other than the 400 lumen bulb:
Gain 50, Shutter 4ms.
That would produce a usable image of a perp albeit a little dark. Once (if) the flood light kicks in, it's like day and the good thing about having some background light is there's no real discernable adaption time for the change in lighting.
And now use your 5w LED in an open field scene without any reflections of light from buildings, windows, etc.
Lets see how far and good your 4kt can see.
CCTVCam
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Some points:
1. IVS are directional. They only react when crossed in a direction at 90 degrees to the direction of the lines. When you're drawing them you should see some arrows showing the direction in which they will react. On the back set here at the top, you can just see an up / down arrow. Just be aware of this because you can be caught out. ie Those IVS might not trip to someone walking through them - the direction of cross arrow (*by the date number 10) is pointing down so they will only react to an object moving top to bottom or vice versa, not through it front to back so you can probably walk through those without tripping them. Also, anyone coming off the lawn by the gap near the birdhouse will walk straight behind them because they sit more in the foreground than the birdhouse. Have you tried? They really need drawing left to right back to front into the picture - think in 3d as Wittaj said.
2. Those back ones aren't anchored against the wall. They're floating in mid air. Aaprt from the direction mentioned above, anyone coming over that back fence or out of the house to that back fence will probably walk behind them past the hosepipe and outdoor store. Same as said above for the birdhouse. Again think in 3D. Look at how CamCrazy drew his lines to give you more of a clue although they need to extend far further and be anchored. They also need to be knee to thigh height.
3. Not really sure how you're getting false alarms. Are you sure you don't have other means of trigger active as well? Apart from the fact it doesn't look like they're going to trigger on any objects at all walking through them, there's nothing to trigger them except heavy rain (water droplets way too small but slight chance of very heavy rain having a cumulative effect so the droplets are seen as 1 large object), sun shadows, or moving leaves possibly of the foreground large leaf potted plant. Only other thing could be birds because their trajectory to or from the brid house may have a vertical component. However, I have serious doubts any perp willa ctually trigger these. You'd be very lucky.
BTW, on false triggers, it also helps to use AI to filter alerts. The purpose of AI is look at the alert, compare it to it's database of known objects of interest and this discard the alert if there's no match or if it walls below a certain percentage of probability (usually set by you - again dangers in here in setting too high or too low). The AI thus will filter oiut most false alerts. However, it pays to get trips wires right in the 1st palce and make sure there's no secondary system also causing unecessary triggers.
CCTVCam
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You can use a larger bulb or mount the light further out or use a small flood to give directional light further out. Remember I don't need to see far out here and I have a motion triggered flood light as well. The 400 lumen light is just so the background recording can see, the IVS can be triggered to trigger the main recording and in case the flood light doesn't come on for some reason eg blown bulb, failed sensor etc. Once the flood comes on, the background light is irrelevent. I put the picture up to show you can get a decent usable picture with a very fast shutter (4ms ie 1/250th) with not much light. if you have a sensitive sensor. You can adjust the background light to suit your camera if not by going stronger. If you need detection further away, then use a small floodlight to project some light out. If that's not suitable, then you need a camera that can also use IR such as the 54Pro. It's all about balancing background lighting to the cameras ability and your needs.
That is a very nice image for 4ms shutter, the obvious question, how does this look with the onboard lights, is that what you mean by flood light I am assuming, hence triggered by the IVS, more pictures please would be fantastic
The two locations I am planning these for they can have the onboard twin LED's running all night so that gets me out of trouble, they both will have flood assistance around 4000 lumens and one has two 300 lumen bulbs which could be turned on if necessary. Couple of other cameras I plan to use the 54Pro models and only have LED's running when IVS gets triggered hopefully from the IR image.
I would like to see some open field image with the 4kt and onboard only LED's, been digging around, probably not well enough, also not trying to derail this thread which is 54Pro type only
Not quite what you are looking for, but I pulled out my 1000 Watt shop lamps (old-school bulbs, so not near as much light output as LED's) to light up my front yard and I have the T54PRO-ZE and 5442-SE mounted next to each other.
As I think @duplo is alluding to (and this crowd well knows), the inverse square law comes into play. I.e. you need 100X the light for something 50 feet away versus 5 feet away. Even more obvious across the street at a 100 feet away. I should mention these are flood lights, not focused beams.
So while this certainly made a different in the quality of the image captured (with faster shutter speed and less gain & NR), it just requires a LOT of light if you trying to light a large area at distance and trying to capture a (visible spectrum) color image.
I wasn't entirely happy with the footage I captured last night, but I'll try to reshoot it this evening.
The T54PRO-ZE is noticeably brighter than the 5442-S3 (even at ZERO gain/NR - used fast shutter speed to intentionally underexpose the scene, so was trying to do a "straight" comparison) so I think the sensor itself is improved significantly ... and that (coupled with what I understand is different image processing) results in a more colorful image. But even with those floods "lighting up the scene", it doesn't compare to daytime, so motion captures aren't near as good.
As I think @duplo is alluding to (and this crowd well knows), the inverse square law comes into play. I.e. you need 100X the light for something 50 feet away versus 5 feet away. Even more obvious across the street at a 100 feet away. I should mention these are flood lights, not focused beams.
So while this certainly made a different in the quality of the image captured (with faster shutter speed and less gain & NR), it just requires a LOT of light if you trying to light a large area at distance and trying to capture a (visible spectrum) color image.
I wasn't entirely happy with the footage I captured last night, but I'll try to reshoot it this evening.
The T54PRO-ZE is noticeably brighter than the 5442-S3 (even at ZERO gain/NR - used fast shutter speed to intentionally underexpose the scene, so was trying to do a "straight" comparison) so I think the sensor itself is improved significantly ... and that (coupled with what I understand is different image processing) results in a more colorful image. But even with those floods "lighting up the scene", it doesn't compare to daytime, so motion captures aren't near as good.
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