WYZE PoE

[laxsrdude]

Hey guys,
Newbie here. Had a blink system before but thats not really anything but mounting some camera's. Didn't really like the system. Not really comfortable running a bunch of wires through the house, so after researching, I decided to get some Wyze cameras for the price/quality/low subscription cost (for the things I want).

A quick layout of the house...a colonial w/ 2 stories above ground. I have a garage in the basement below grade. There is already a motion light in the middle of the house between the 2 garage doors. My goal is to buy the WYZE floodlight for that spot. I would like another v3 light all the way up at the top corner of the house for the front yard. I could always buy the solar power and just put a Wyze Outdoor camera there, but im trying to save a few bucks and from experience, I dont trust solar power too much during winter time.

I am trying to figure out a way to power a v3 all the way up there off the 2nd outlet that is on the floodlight that you can use to power v3's. I can't just buy an extension cord because it's too long a distance from the floodlight...across the house and up a little over 2 stories. I have seen that you can power the v3's w/ PoE, which I think would help due to the long distance from the power source I want to use.

What adaptor's would I need/recommend for this? Or is it even a good idea, or is there a better way.
I know I need just a regular PoE like the one below (are some water proof/better for outside)
Amazon PoE example
But how would I put the cat5 end into the floodlight. Is there another adaptor for that?

Thanks for any help or recommendations you have.

Austin

 

[Teken]

Going with the solar option costs more but it’s going to work. If you really want to go the route of running cable and everything that’s involved like stapling 25-50 feet of cable.

You’ll need to use larger diameter wire like 18-2 vs the super thin 22-28 AWG that normally comes with USB extension cables.

You’ll need to purchase a Micro USB Break Out PCB / cable harness like this:




Keep in mind they make just the Micro USB board too which is dirt cheap.

Good Luck . . .

 

[Alaska Country]

There are no specifications listed for the adapter as to input voltage or output current and voltage. In theory, one will need a device that will convert 48 VDC to 5 VDC for the camera. (The smaller Wyze cams usually take less than 1/2 amp at 5 VDC or 2.5 watts.

If this is a 802.3af rated device then yes it is rated at 48 VDC input. According to the comments this seems to be the case.

Just connect to a standard Ethernet cable (CAT-5e or CAT-6). Since there is no data it will not make any difference as to the overall wire data specifications.

The other end has to be plugged into a POE switch or POE adapter/injector that will supply 48 DC. Use an existing POE network switch or NVR POE port.

If you have neither, take a look at the power injectors available at IP Power Cam and other firms.

(IPCamPower Mini POE Injector Wall Wart Plug - 802.3at Full 30 watts - Designed for IP Cameras IPCP-MINIINJECTOR-AT)

Cost is $30 for a four pack with free shipping.

The use of a higher voltage will allow for a longer cable run as the current will be less. i.e. and Ohms law I squared R losses scenario.

 

[Teken]

He wants to use the secondary USB power port from the Wyze Flood Cam.

 

[Mike A.]

For $14, seems like the easier route...

Wyze Accessories — Wasserstein

Wyze accessories — solar panels, floodlights, mounts, chargers and more. Check out the bundles and deals at Wasserstein Home.

wasserstein-home.com

 

[Teken]

For $14, seems like the easier route...

Wyze Accessories — Wasserstein

Wyze accessories — solar panels, floodlights, mounts, chargers and more. Check out the bundles and deals at Wasserstein Home.

wasserstein-home.com

I believe that’s the same item he listed out. If I understand him correctly there is a secondary Micro USB output port. He wants to connect the secondary v3 to it while spanning whatever distance to the second floor.

The problem I believe he’s trying to address is there isn’t a Micro USB to Ethernet male connector to than use another gender changer to connect the other end.

Hence why I offered one example of a break out board / cable assembly.

I could be wrong but that’s what I understood???

 

[Mike A.]

Ahhh... read too fast.

Hmmm, the second connection on the floodlight is USB micro isn't it? Can't just use two of those?

Or maybe just run a POE cable to the second cam without involving the floodlight? Hard to judge without knowing the layout and how hard to get from here to there.

 

[Teken]

Ahhh... read too fast.

Hmmm, the second connection on the floodlight is USB micro isn't it? Can't just use two of those?

Or maybe just run a POE cable to the second cam without involving the floodlight? Hard to judge without knowing the layout and how hard to get from here to there.

I agree and the simplest thing to do is just run a USB cable with a gender changer adapter. Without knowing the actual distance if it exceeds the 35 feet limit voltage drop will be seen.

Hence why I suggested using a breakout board as this allows any type and gauge wire to be used to meet the required distance. You won’t need to waste time wondering if that blue light special cable is actually using 20-18 AWG cable.

 

[laxsrdude]

I agree and the simplest thing to do is just run a USB cable with a gender changer adapter. Without knowing the actual distance if it exceeds the 35 feet limit voltage drop will be seen.

Hence why I suggested using a breakout board as this allows any type and gauge wire to be used to meet the required distance. You won’t need to waste time wondering if that blue light special cable is actually using 20-18 AWG cable.

I hope the picture helps. I want to put the Wyze floodlight where FIGURE A is. I want another light at FIGURE B (top left corner of the house). I haven't measured but based on my research, will definitely be too long and lose power. So I want to run a PoE connection going from FIGURE B down behind the rain gutter, and along the top of the brick to FIGURE A. I guess I am trying to figure out how to connect figure B to figure A, or what adaptor's I would need to plug the cat5 back into the micro slot on the floodlight. I could always just run the cat5 through the garage corner FIGURE C and run it to a wall outlet w/ another converter...but that wouldn't give it a clean look.

And I am worried about the outdoor camera. I obviously dont wanna bust out the ladder and climb up there to replace/recharge the batteries whenever they die...which would happen fast since it's the camera for the front yard (ups, kids, everything would set it off and drain the battery). I could use the solar panel that you can get for it, but as you can see, I have a big tree in the yard that blocks alot of sun the 2nd half of the day. I'm sure the Wyze solar panel is better then what i've used before, but old solar power motion flood lights rarely worked in the winter due to lower sunlight, and that light was getting light 1/2 the day just like this one would.

I hope this image helps explain what I am trying to do and thank you for the replies so far!

 

[looney2ns]

I suggest you read this: Cliff Notes

 

[Teken]

I hope the picture helps. I want to put the Wyze floodlight where FIGURE A is. I want another light at FIGURE B (top left corner of the house). I haven't measured but based on my research, will definitely be too long and lose power. So I want to run a PoE connection going from FIGURE B down behind the rain gutter, and along the top of the brick to FIGURE A. I guess I am trying to figure out how to connect figure B to figure A, or what adaptor's I would need to plug the cat5 back into the micro slot on the floodlight. I could always just run the cat5 through the garage corner FIGURE C and run it to a wall outlet w/ another converter...but that wouldn't give it a clean look.

And I am worried about the outdoor camera. I obviously dont wanna bust out the ladder and climb up there to replace/recharge the batteries whenever they die...which would happen fast since it's the camera for the front yard (ups, kids, everything would set it off and drain the battery). I could use the solar panel that you can get for it, but as you can see, I have a big tree in the yard that blocks alot of sun the 2nd half of the day. I'm sure the Wyze solar panel is better then what i've used before, but old solar power motion flood lights rarely worked in the winter due to lower sunlight, and that light was getting light 1/2 the day just like this one would.

I hope this image helps explain what I am trying to do and thank you for the replies so far!

I think we all need to step back for a moment and really understand what you want vs what you really need. I made an assumption (incorrectly) in thinking all you wanted is to add another small Wayze Cam v3?!? But, your most recent reply indicates you want another flood light cam??

This requires a 120 VAC line to power the camera and the LED's correctly.

Unless you mean that little tiny add on LED light???

Regardless, I understand why your doing this because its cheap but you're better served in reconsidering your video security options. You can certainly go with the Flood Light Cam for the (A) lower level if you wish. If you want the same for the second floor than 120 VAC needs to be installed.

A much better route to take is to install a real CAT-6 Ethernet run to that location and purchase a real POE video security camera . . .

Ultimately you need to run cable up to that upper area and given the time, resources, and finances. It honestly makes little sense in trying to MacGyver a Wyze Camera up there.

 

[laxsrdude]

I think we all need to step back for a moment and really understand what you want vs what you really need. I made an assumption (incorrectly) in thinking all you wanted is to add another small Wayze Cam v3?!? But, your most recent reply indicates you want another flood light cam??

This requires a 120 VAC line to power the camera and the LED's correctly.

Unless you mean that little tiny add on LED light???

Regardless, I understand why your doing this because its cheap but you're better served in reconsidering your video security options. You can certainly go with the Flood Light Cam for the (A) lower level if you wish. If you want the same for the second floor than 120 VAC needs to be installed.

A much better route to take is to install a real CAT-6 Ethernet run to that location and purchase a real POE video security camera . . .

Ultimately you need to run cable up to that upper area and given the time, resources, and finances. It honestly makes little sense in trying to MacGyver a Wyze Camera up there.

I don't have any camera's at the house (bought earlier this year and trying to get set-up). I want to put the Wyze floodlight where figure A is...pretty much just replacing the light that's there now with the Wyze floodlight, which comes with the v3....I also want another camera up where figure B is. I figure the best way to avoid having to maintain the add on light is the power it with PoE due to the distance. I am trying to figure out the best way to power camera B in the top corner. weather it be the wyze solar panel, or running a cable down the gutter and powering it somewhere else.

A lot of what everyone has said is like a foreign language to me and have no clue what yall are talking about lol which is why I thought this would be the easier way.

 

[Teken]

I don't have any camera's at the house (bought earlier this year and trying to get set-up). I want to put the Wyze floodlight where figure A is...pretty much just replacing the light that's there now with the Wyze floodlight, which comes with the v3....I also want another camera up where figure B is. I figure the best way to avoid having to maintain the add on light is the power it with PoE due to the distance. I am trying to figure out the best way to power camera B in the top corner. weather it be the wyze solar panel, or running a cable down the gutter and powering it somewhere else.

A lot of what everyone has said is like a foreign language to me and have no clue what yall are talking about lol which is why I thought this would be the easier way.

Got it, and apologize for talking over you.

At this juncture its just going to be a lot easier for you to purchase and install the solar version of this unit. You can purchase a longer USB cable to extend the reach of the solar panel to get the best light. Anything else you want to do is going to be compromise unless you're ready to invest the time to run a dedicated (Ethernet Cable) from the inside the home to that target area.

That means getting inside of the attic space, garage, or some fancy way under the siding . . .

To be crystal clear unless you run some kind of 120 VAC extension up to that location. A 120 VAC power line will need to be in place if you decide to go with the Flood Light Cam. You'll be fine with the (A) location for random none critical viewing. But, you're really asking too much out of the v3 to provide you any real (usable) video security with that camera.

 

[Mike A.]

If you mean a second V3 cam in position B then you're not really buying anything putting it up that high. You'd be just as well if not better off keeping it down lower. You'll see everything that you'd see from a better perspective. Just run a longer USB cable from the floodlight to B mounted lower maybe just below the siding. Easy. Done.

You won't, as far as I can tell, be running actual POE at all are you? Just thinking of using network cable to extend whatever power the floodlight cam provides to the second cam?

 

[laxsrdude]

@Teken you're good, definitely not talking over me. I'm sure I am not trying to explain what's going on in my head very well...and I know my knowledge in all this (lack there of) doesn't help.
@Mike A. I guess I didn't think of the quality that a $35 would provide to me from that high up. Definitely okay lowing the camera lower toward the main floor window. I attached a picture to the front of the house also is that helps.
Just to clarify, there's nothing wrong with replacing the current old motion light by the garage door w/ the wyze floodlight, it's already powered...just gotta make sure the switch never get's turned off.
I have a friend that has Wyze camera's and he had cords he runs under his windows...never thought it looked the best, but if I really wanna save money, I suppose I could just run a cord under the window, hide it under the siding and mount the camera on the gutter or in the area.

Thanks again for the help. If yall have any suggestions or a complete different system I haven't even thought of, I am open to idea's.

 

[wittaj]

If all you care about is knowing hey the family is home, oh there is the UPS guy, and that sort of thing, the Wyze will be fine.

If you want to IDENTIFY a perp coming to your property, then you need to reconsider the camera location and make/model...

Consumer grade cameras are convenient. Simply hang them up and scan a QR code and away you go, but that simplicity comes at a cost and that cost is network vulnerability and crappy images at night.

The Typical picture of a Perp on Nextdoor-type Apps with Consumer Grade Cameras like Ring, Nest, Arlo, Canary, Wyze, etc.

Love these posts on Nextdoor type apps LOL. This thread will be used for members to post the poor quality consumer grade type camera images that we see people post to the Nextdoor type apps. Can anyone make out this person that went thru their cars LOL.... And this thread is where members...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[Mike A.]

Yeah, just run an extension of the USB along the bottom edge of the siding to the front and then up behind the gutter. Mount the cam to the side of the gutter in some way about mid-window height. That will be easy and give you the best view from what you're working with.

The V3 is OK at night. I have several of them that I got cheap that I use as fill-ins where I wouldn't have anything otherwise. A static image will look amazing with a little light. But when things start moving too much/too fast and/or the scene is complex you'll start to see how pushing the cam to do that starts to break down kind of badly. But for the money and vs not having anything, they're OK for what they are and to get started with.