Anyone have suggestions for the power bricks (or whatever they're called) for POE cameras? I seem to have lost mine. I'm speaking of the ones that fit the "pig-tail" end of the cord off of the camera. Not the injectors that have the two ports on them. Or is there any real difference? I guess I could buy one of the two-port ones, but I figured the simple "power brick" ones would be cheaper?
Another injector question....
- Thread starter berriesandnuts
- Start date
Any 802.3af/at compliant POE injector will have 2 ports, one marked "LAN" for your network and one marked "POE" for the camera, otherwise...how would it work?
Depending on the amount of current required by the camera, this one is a good choice for many:
TP-Link PoE+ Injector Gigabit | Non-PoE to PoE Adapter | 802.3at/af Compliant | Up to 30W Power Budget | Wall Mountable | Plug&Play | Up to 100m(328 ft) | UL Certified(POE160S)
The "power brick" ones you mention: would that be a 12VDC "wall wart"? If so, that's not considered to be used for a POE camerea, although you could use a "splitter/injector " pair to put that 12VDC on the cable on pins 4/5 for positive DC and 7/8 for negative DC. That's passive, not active POE and would defeat the purpose of using a 802.3af/at-compliant POE camera. You also would likely not be able to source that 12VDC up to 328 ft./100m as you could with compliant POE.
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Yes, I was talking about the wall wart like I attached in the pic. I think that's what's was mentioned I believe in the original "get started" manual that came with the camera.
I think that most folks that have to read a "get started" type of manual are newcomers to IP cameras and likely do not have a POE switch or POE injector laying around. If they are moving from analog cameras they are more likely to have one or more 12VDC "wall warts" with the compatible connector, as it's the same polarity and barrel/pin size as for the IP cameras.
I get what you're saying. I actually do have a poe switch. But I have none of those two port injectors. As it turns out, I had to move a camera to a spot that previously fed from one of those power line adapters. Seems I'll either have to buy another switch, replace switches, or put in an injector. I have a wall wart that I pulled off my son's old keyboard, but i was hoping maybe they could be found cheaply.
The two port injector needs multiple cables plus STILL a wall wart of some kind, no?
Well, I guess it's cheaper than more switches.
The two port injector needs multiple cables plus STILL a wall wart of some kind, no?
Well, I guess it's cheaper than more switches.
The one I linked in post #2 comes with a power cord that plugs into a 120VAC outlet.
Thanks. When I first started looking, I was seeing them at the $45'ish range.
Although the keyboard wall wart works, the specs are a little off. So I'm probably gonna pursue the option you're pointing out instead of another wall wart.
I think that'll probably work the best for you.
BTW, this was a topic in another thread recently (below) ....speaking of wall warts, make sure the ones you have now or any you might buy in the future are UL-listed and not counterfeit. The cheaper ones are not worth the gamble, IMO.