IPC-Color4M-T vs IPC-T54IR-ZE White

blocksog

Getting the hang of it
Jul 4, 2024
103
35
Northeast
I tried the T54IR and liked it. I am looking to get more cameras, but I don't need the T54IR zoom. Is the Color4M almost identical to T54IR in terms of picture quality at night with IR?

T54IR:
Color4M:
About Color4M, does the Warm light stay always on or off, or is there any smart feature to turn it on if it sees a human using IR?

I have also another question. Everybody around here says IVS is the safest bet with lowest false alarms. Yet I see SMD improving from camera to camera (e.g., T54IR has SMD3 while Color4M has SMD4). Is SMD version relevant at all, does it affect IVS in any way? Or shall I disregard whatever SMD is on the camera?
 
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The T54IR has a better IR image. Its a better sensor.
But the Color4M-T is quite good, actually pics up light better, but with some noise.

You can control the white LEDS a variety of ways. They can be set to only activate on IVS yes

I haven't found anything SMD does that IVS /VMD doesn't do better. YMMV


Look at this thread. Expand the videos to full size and see the noise difference

 
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Ditto - one only, my front door., I like the white light LED's, the better mics, and real two-way talk.

I just wish it didn’t have the digital noise.
 
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Ditto - one only, my front door., I like the white light LED's, the better mics, and real two-way talk.

I just wish it didn’t have the digital noise.
Yep, and don't overlook the great built-in speaker. It's fun to setup greetings for visitors and especially nice for Halloween.
View attachment speaker.mp4
 
Tomorrow arrives my 2.8mm Color4M which I will probably put on front door. @tmxv4128 yours is a 2.8mm too right?

I am almost regretting I put a 8mp Color4K on my driveway yesterday, which needs the warm light all night on.
 
I prefer the 3.6 for entry doorways but the camera is excellent for that setting
 
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I hear you @bigredfish but I have a 3.6 and need more angle to get the walkway more to detect an incoming person sooner. This is the current view, and I know the angle is a bit messed up and needed to be higher but I didn't install this. The other thing I am thinking is that these ceiling views of an incoming person are useless to identify someone from the hair or hood, so between 3.6 or 2.8, I might as well get the broader view of whoever is coming from farer.
1000061635.jpg
 
Tomorrow arrives my 2.8mm Color4M which I will probably put on front door. @tmxv4128 yours is a 2.8mm too right?

I am almost regretting I put a 8mp Color4K on my driveway yesterday, which needs the warm light all night on.
Actually, the Color4M-T that I have on the front door is 3.6mm. It allows me just enough of the walkway and identification at the door to work well. I had previously tried a 2.8mm, 6mm, and variable 2.7-12mm. A 2.8mm looks like it will work well for your placement. Have you considered rotating your camera vertically to see if it would cover the doorway and walkway? Remember that most of the time people stand back from the door and don't get right up against it when visiting. Seems like a vertical orientation might be a perfect way to set it up, since it would cover a person's entire body and walkway.

example.jpg
 
Hmmm, I never thought about vertical use. Thanks! Truth is also that on the right side of that walkway, right where the camera view ends, there is another incoming path through some steps. The 2.8mm may get some of that too.
 
I hear you @bigredfish but I have a 3.6 and need more angle to get the walkway more to detect an incoming person sooner. This is the current view, and I know the angle is a bit messed up and needed to be higher but I didn't install this. The other thing I am thinking is that these ceiling views of an incoming person are useless to identify someone from the hair or hood, so between 3.6 or 2.8, I might as well get the broader view of whoever is coming from farer.
View attachment 226508


Agree on height, thats not bad, too many place them too high

Certainly it's a matter of degrees.
My Primary #1 objective on a door camera is Facial ID. I'll give up some coverage to get a better Face ID. In that regard given the same placement, I'll take 3.6 over 2.8 all day long.

On your existing 3.6 it could be tilted up a bit. Even if you lose the feet, I dont care much about the logo on his tennis shoes. I can get that with other cameras.
And I'd likely have another camera focused on the pathway

Biggest mistake is always trying to do too many things with too few cameras ;)
 
My front neighbor got robbed three months ago. I caught most of the arrival and departure of thieves on my PTZ camera. Thieves almost never go through the front door. They go through the back, just like they did with my neighbor, where they broke a back window. So, I have already three cameras on the front, but where the ID must be really needed is the back. Also, the angle of most cameras from above is horrible to ID people in my opinion. If we really want to ID someone, the camera should be low and looking up, which ideally would be a doorbell camera to complement the ceiling one. What do you think @bigredfish ?
 
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Yes I already agreed with height. This is basic to facial ID. No more than 6-7 ft at a doorway. And while I don’t have one, I do think doorbell cameras have a place .

Again on height, this translates to most all camera placements except those specifically tasked for Overview and PTZs, both of which benefit from increased height
 
@bigredfish , how did you make the Color4M turn on the warm lights when detecting a human? I have set IVS and the only Event Linkage I can find is flickering of red/blue lights, there is no option for Warm Lights. The illuminator in camera settings is set to Smart Illumination with Human Target but is not picking up the human much and keeps staying in IR mode.
 
Correct, its NOT in IVS.

I had this discussion with someone before, its much like SMD its scene wide based on Smart Illumination settings, NOT IVS

Gimmee a minute and I'll post my settings
 
Also recommend do NOT run AFSA during the day
 
Do you guys have MD and SMD on? I have been fighting with every possible setting and just now managed to trigger the warm light on, after enabling MD and SMD. Are these needed to be on?