flynreelow
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Dahua Lens Replacement
- Thread starter Russell_S
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One of the most common mistakes is trying to cover too much area with a single camera. Wider view = less detail. Knowing someone broke into your vehicle for instance is good to know, being able to get positive facial ID of a stranger is better.
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You need to know what the mount type is. If it's M12, there were a lot of ebay listings last time I looked. M16, not so many.
flynreelow
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Spec sheet for the ipc-k42 says it's M12. Multiple choices on ebay, and probably other outlets. The question would be if the 3.6 lens is physically bigger than the 2.8, and would fit in the camera's case.
Same form factor as thr hikvision cube cams that are 2mp, which i have plenty, so assuming it would. May just try to pull the lens from a hik with a 3.6 or 4mm lens and put it on the dahua to see how it works out.
CanCuba
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Thank you for the information re: disassembling the BoobieCam! I never would have gotten it apart.
Cheers!
flynreelow
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It is basically the same process, except the camera comes apart differently. If I recall correctly, you simply unscrew the screws to split the ball/turret in two and slide the part out instead of entering it through the front like with a bullet cam.
flynreelow
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good to know thanks
i struggled gettin the glue off of my boobie cam.... may attempt it again one of these days
Yeah that can be a pain. But if it is an older camera, it will probably pop off easier now. I would take an x-acto knife and it usually popped the glue off in one piece.
Once on a newer one I took a glue gun to it to heat it up, but not sure if they all use that type or not.
Verify this because I'm digging into deep memory.
1. The lens mounts for the 1/1.8 cameras are M16. The spec sheets say M12.
2. A few years ago M16 lenses were hard to find, while M12 were plentiful. Maybe that's changed by now.
flynreelow
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From my experience, some have a threadlocker... others have what looks like a hot glue. Removing the lens can be as easy as just twisting it off by hand or use some adjustable pliers to grab around the outer plastic ring on the lens and untwisting. One thing to note is that before fully assembling the camera back together, power on the camera and pull a liveview from it. Then adjust the focus first. You will be focusing according to the spot where you want it the "clearest". I tried it once adjusting at my bench but had it pointed at my wall roughly two feet away but when looking further away it was blurry with a bokeh effect. So adjust for the distance you need it "sharp" for.
flynreelow
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Single lens camera is a LTS ProX which uses a M16. The pano....which by the way didn't work out due to there not being a horizontal adjustability of the lens itself is an Annke FCD600. That one had M12's inside.
One thing to note is that you will notice a difference in image quality depending on the quality of the lens. So depending on how optically clear and some other aspects of the replacement lens you may get an improvement in the clarity and brightness of the image. Here is an example on the fixed lens that I did.
Stock lens... M16 2.8MM
vs the swapped lens which is a 4MM
And now the night time imaging....
Stock Lens (2.8MM)
Versus the swapped 4MM lens....
Now..... I mainly did the swap because I wanted to have a more narrow field of view. I feel the 4MM lens I used was inferior as the image as far as the colors was not as vibrant and the clarity was lacking. Note that these are two of the same cameras with the same settings on both set next to each other.
Stock lens... M16 2.8MM
vs the swapped lens which is a 4MM
And now the night time imaging....
Stock Lens (2.8MM)
Versus the swapped 4MM lens....
Now..... I mainly did the swap because I wanted to have a more narrow field of view. I feel the 4MM lens I used was inferior as the image as far as the colors was not as vibrant and the clarity was lacking. Note that these are two of the same cameras with the same settings on both set next to each other.