How to waterproof a PFA130-E junction box

Sep 24, 2017
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I’m installing a Dahua camera with a PFA130-E junction box for an outdoor setup. The RJ45 connector will pass through the wall and into the back of the junction box. What’s the best way to make sure this installation is waterproof? Should I fit a cable gland inside the box, or is there a better method? I’m concerned that water may run down the wall and enter through the rear cable hole because the brick surface isn’t completely flat.IMG_6312.jpgIMG_6314.jpgIMG_6313.jpg
 
With this box having a foam(ish) layer on the back: after the box is mounted, I typically run a bead of sealant around the exterior edge of the junction box to seal where it contacts the wall. I leave the bottom 1/4 - 1/3 unsealed in the event moisture does occur... it will have a place to exit from behind the box.

Keep in mind... the red line in the image below is depicting where I typically place the sealant on the OUTSIDE of the box.

1758561546547.png

edit: if the box spans mortar lines between brick/block within the red line noted.... I seal the mortar line gaps, as well

edit (the sequel): use some duct seal to weatherize around the cable & opening coming in to the box
 
With this box having a foam(ish) layer on the back: after the box is mounted, I typically run a bead of sealant around the exterior edge of the junction box to seal where it contacts the wall. I leave the bottom 1/4 - 1/3 unsealed in the event moisture does occur... it will have a place to exit from behind the box.

Keep in mind... the red line in the image below is depicting where I typically place the sealant on the OUTSIDE of the box.

View attachment 228519

edit: if the box spans mortar lines between brick/block within the red line noted.... I seal the mortar line gaps, as well

edit (the sequel): use some duct seal to weatherize around the cable & opening coming in to the box

thanks for the reply. Could I use a screw in waterpoof cable gland in the center hole? instead of adding sealant? As you can see the brickwork isnt level and the cbale will come through the back
 

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thanks for the reply. Could I use a screw in waterpoof cable gland in the center hole? instead of adding sealant? As you can see the brickwork isnt level and the cbale will come through the back
Ooof... The split face block sucks.

Options I see, in no specific order:
  • Chip/grind down the area for a more consistently flat area to center mount the box over the current wire opening.
  • Make the current hole bigger, put in a small piece of EMT to weatherize the opening (leaving a stub) that transitions to liquid-tight. Create a small service loop and connect to the box (from the bottom) mounted on the block to the upper right.
  • Make a new hole in the block face to the upper right, center mount over the hole
Concerned the first option does allow for a solid anchoring surface... without a lot of effort
Option two will be less appealing to those favoring (demanding?) a 'clean' look
Of course... option 3 is dependent on what space/access is available behind the block. But it provides a solid almost flat anchoring surface and it looks as though the sealant will easily make up for the not-completely-smooth surface. Plus... you'll only be making holes in one block... not three.

</.02>
 
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Ooof... The split face block sucks.

Options I see, in no specific order:
  • Chip/grind down the area for a more consistently flat area to center mount the box over the current wire opening.
  • Make the current hole bigger, put in a small piece of EMT to weatherize the opening (leaving a stub) that transitions to liquid-tight. Create a small service loop and connect to the box (from the bottom) mounted on the block to the upper right.
  • Make a new hole in the block face to the upper right, center mount over the hole
Concerned the first option does allow for a solid anchoring surface... without a lot of effort
Option two will be less appealing to those favoring (demanding?) a 'clean' look
Of course... option 3 is dependent on what space/access is available behind the block. But it provides a solid almost flat anchoring surface and it looks as though the sealant will easily make up for the not-completely-smooth surface. Plus... you'll only be making holes in one block... not three.

</.02>
Option 1 - I dont really want to chip the brick away
Option 3 - There is no space behind. This is where the builders fed the wire through.

Maybe option 2 - I could move it to the top right as its flush there. But then the wire will be exposed. Im in the UK and struggling to find a cable gland to fit the box that goes down to 5mm for cat5e

Ive only just realised what a terrible place the wire is in!

Option 4. I run a new outdoor cable around the house to this location. But annoying when this cable is already there
 
Option 1 - I dont really want to chip the brick away
Option 3 - There is no space behind. This is where the builders fed the wire through.

Maybe option 2 - I could move it to the top right as its flush there. But then the wire will be exposed. Im in the UK and struggling to find a cable gland to fit the box that goes down to 5mm for cat5e

Ive only just realised what a terrible place the wire is in!

Option 4. I run a new outdoor cable around the house to this location. But annoying when this cable is already there

Option 2 - is liquid-tite avail over there? It will keep the wire protected from the elements, and it should be easier to connect with the box.
 
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@ministrymason You keep mentioning a cable gland. I do not think finding one to clamp down on cat5 cable would be difficult. I have done this several times with cat5 cable and SO cord. But I think most glands would be to deep to screw it inside. How about a pipe to barbed connection like uxcell PVC Barb Hose Fitting Connector Adapter 8mm or 5/16" Barbed x G1/2 Male Pipe 2pcs : Amazon.co.uk: Garden ? The barb could be gooped up with rtv or monkey snot and just pushed into the existing hole in the brick facade.