New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
- Thread starter fleece
- Start date
I guess the stucco...wood peckers are I suppose incredibly equipped to do what they do. The black PIR cover is some support of fresnel lense I am pretty sure as the piece missing in the picture has the same pattern of ridges on the back. I guess an optics/pir expert would have to chime in(pun intended). I have asked a few places on aliexpress. One answered with just a "No" ...so at least they didnt try and sell me something that wouldnt work. I was thinking something like thisWhat did the bird hang on to?
So you are not alone, some here has shared about their cracked PIR lens. Someone trying to ring the doorbell pushing the PIR lens instead of the DB button.
Here is something I posted awhile back. Let us know if you come up with a fix/repair...
New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
I was originally only able to login via iVMS-4200. I was getting password errors with the Batch Config tool. I uninstalled the Batch tool and reinstalled. This time, I was able to add the camera to the section above using the password I created at another point. So, now I can login with both...ipcamtalk.com
Oh i also saw a mod wherein somebody popped out the white cover for the button on the black cover or something so that the doorbell was all the same but the actual button was the opposite color Improving the Ezviz DB1 doorbell
Last edited:
Sorry for late reply...I just did a quick search and found this:
New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
I ordered the EZviz DB1 verision of this camera for $89 the other day. It just came in and I love it! I did a firmware update and it supports RTSP as well as google assistant. To get google assistant to work, you have to disable the Image Encrypt feature. Now I can say, hey google, show me the...
The picture looks like these may be tapered...
Let us know if you find out what size? Read one comment from the above Amazon link calling them T#S, ex. T8S, guessing the S is for Security, maybe means Taper...but I always thought the center hole meant Security
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
Hi - I am using my EZVIZ DB1 completely stock. What happened to the option to trigger the mechanical chime in the android app? I recall having to look around for it previously but I don't recall it being THIS hard finding it. Did they remove that option due to it not consistently working?
I was able to contact support before they closed, thank god for pacific hours, and supposedly they did remove the option to toggle the mechanical chime within the app and it can only be done during initial setup. Anyways i told the CS that they need to add that feat back in. I guess I'll be resetting my doorbell again.
So I spoke with EZVIZ Chat support. They said that the low bitrate is an issue and are working on it. Hope they add higher bitrate such as 8192k or higher as 2048k is so damn low. Hell my cheap $29 indoor PT hikvision (rebranded to Uniden) 2MP camera has better quality then the 3MP doorbell cam. I also asked them to add both 12hr and 24hr rather then just 24hr for the time stamp overlay.
does EZVIZ actuality listen to people in regards to updates and issues or did I just waste my time talking with support chat?
does EZVIZ actuality listen to people in regards to updates and issues or did I just waste my time talking with support chat?
TechBill
Known around here
- Nov 1, 2014
- 1,829
- 1,190
Correct. They did remove it from the setting and only way to change it is to reset DB and re-run the setup again.
What about just install different version of app rather
Don't have to actually reset the db. Just remove the db from the app then re-add db from app and it should go through the setup process of the chime.
Last edited:
TechBill
Known around here
- Nov 1, 2014
- 1,829
- 1,190
You are correct about that, just delete and reinstall which would be quicker to do.
Hi I am having trouble with getting my mechanical chime to work. I checked the first post on this thread and upgraded the transformer to the 16v/30a from home depot. After connecting I read 20v from back of transformer, 0.8v when everything is connected measuring at the chime's front and trans slots, I got ~4.8v between the doorbell wire and the transformer wire that connects to the power kit.
Maybe I need to recheck the doorbell wire connection to the doorbell and also the connections on the powerkit? Does it matter if the doorbell is not on the compatibility list, I figure as long as you get the transformer good then that should be that, it is a standard doorbell that the developer put in this cookie cutter house.
Maybe I need to recheck the doorbell wire connection to the doorbell and also the connections on the powerkit? Does it matter if the doorbell is not on the compatibility list, I figure as long as you get the transformer good then that should be that, it is a standard doorbell that the developer put in this cookie cutter house.
A few questions, did your Mech. Chime work before Smart DB install? Which DB do you have? What App are you using?
I have the ezviz db1. The doorbell worked before i installed the ezviz. I am using the latest ezviz app and I readded the doorbell and selected mechanical chime after upgrading the transformer.
Before I upgraded the transformer, the mech. chime sporatically worked with the ezviz, but it seemed like it was temperature dependant - like 60s-70F. I could be guessing/totally not relevant. I looked up my old chime and it might've been rated for 12v.
If I leave the power kit out of the circuit, then I hear humming. When I had the old transformer, i would hear a hum and the doorbell would actually ding every few seconds, but very lightly not at its full sound.
Just a guess but sounds like the same problem many here has been having, losing their chime after it was working for a long time. Sounds like you did what the others have had to do, reinstall the DB. You did right by upgrading your transformer, it is important to have the right VA to handle the DB and the Chime. My guess would be to try reinstalling again, I read a few that had to do it a few times before their Chime started working again. This is all EZVIZ's fault, when they removed the Chime option in their App this became a problem.
Yeah the power kit is important to regulate the voltage.
Here updated transformer to this one:
and this one:
Both worked with the integration of the power kit using a legacy 12VAC Nutone chime and now have a testing hot spare.
A few months later upgraded the chime to this one:
Works fine except when the Hikvision DB would reset itself. Now it doesn't anymore moving to a new proxy.
I do not utilize the Android app and have the DB integrated to my Alarm panel and Home Assistant, Homeseer and Alexa Show devices (very slow pop up video).
You could have a bad power module as one user has reported this using the DB1.
Automation touchscreens do instant pop up video on front door 2nd PIR. I had issues with integrated PIR so not using it at all these days.
using an Elk Doorbell circuit board (ELK-930) and an Elk debounce board (Elk-960) and have added a current sensor.
I have had to use the Android app to configure it back to a mechanical chime. That is a PITA.
I cannot make any adjustments to this feature with the Hikvision Batch Configuration.
I can now though configure the DB1 new reboot via the Hikvision Batch configuration which I have done a few times now. Using the wireless on the Lenova M93 running Windows 2016 server.
Thinking what fixed the random reboots was using a proxy for all of my video connections==> (I had too many and you are limited to three)
Blue Iris, Home Assistant, Zoneminder, Homeseer, OmniTouch Pro touchscreens (propietary interface to alarm panel) and a "few" custom Kodi boxes (Kodi running in Linux) on modded Android TV boxes (not using android)
BTW installed a Ring alarm / doorbell configuration in House two with a Home Assistant plugin. Works great and do not utilize the Android app any more. But its all in the cloud.
and this one:
Both worked with the integration of the power kit using a legacy 12VAC Nutone chime and now have a testing hot spare.
A few months later upgraded the chime to this one:
Works fine except when the Hikvision DB would reset itself. Now it doesn't anymore moving to a new proxy.
I do not utilize the Android app and have the DB integrated to my Alarm panel and Home Assistant, Homeseer and Alexa Show devices (very slow pop up video).
You could have a bad power module as one user has reported this using the DB1.
Automation touchscreens do instant pop up video on front door 2nd PIR. I had issues with integrated PIR so not using it at all these days.
using an Elk Doorbell circuit board (ELK-930) and an Elk debounce board (Elk-960) and have added a current sensor.
I have had to use the Android app to configure it back to a mechanical chime. That is a PITA.
I cannot make any adjustments to this feature with the Hikvision Batch Configuration.
I can now though configure the DB1 new reboot via the Hikvision Batch configuration which I have done a few times now. Using the wireless on the Lenova M93 running Windows 2016 server.
Thinking what fixed the random reboots was using a proxy for all of my video connections==> (I had too many and you are limited to three)
Blue Iris, Home Assistant, Zoneminder, Homeseer, OmniTouch Pro touchscreens (propietary interface to alarm panel) and a "few" custom Kodi boxes (Kodi running in Linux) on modded Android TV boxes (not using android)
BTW installed a Ring alarm / doorbell configuration in House two with a Home Assistant plugin. Works great and do not utilize the Android app any more. But its all in the cloud.
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
I am going to check my connections again. I wonder how much voltage should be going thru the doorbell and transformer line w/o the power kit attached at idle. 4.8v seems low but maybe not since it is at idle.
I guess I'll be relying on alexa as my chime - I really hate having another smart device to worry about, but I need a doorbell - I think because ppl weren't hearing the doorbell inside, guests waiting to be let in started smashing the PIR sensor. Anyways previously I tried just removing from the app several times and even did a complete reset to no avail. I didn't look at the connections again because after fully understanding how the circuit works, I figured the doorbell wouldnt be powering on if there was a bad connection - especially considering my prior voltage measurement at the transformer. I thought the old app there used to be a voltage reading somewhere or maybe that was another manufacturers app?
Remove the power pack, Doorbell and connect the wires like they were before the doorbell. Short the two wires to the doorbell button. Does the doorbell chime ring?
Before mounting the doorbell outside I connected a spare AC transformer directly to the two terminals on the doorbell. Configure the doorbell on your workbench with the spare power supply. Make sure the app is set to mechanical chime.
Then re install the power pack and doorbell outside. Have someone push the doorbell button outside.
If you only hear a buzz when the doorbell button is pressed then more than likely need more amperage. Taking the cover off the chime and looking at the plate between the two chimes you will see the model number and voltage which should match the current transformer. Mine chime and transformer were marked 12VAC.
There is a post above relating to what you should see in the power pack.
Not really sure how much a VOM will help you with this endeavor other than validating voltages and amperages. For me it did not help. That said previous to using this doorbell I had added detection circuits for my old analog alarm panel way long time ago. (20 years ago). Back then I had an Optex combo IP / PIR camera facing the door and used geophone sensors buried under the cement walk way. (front door had three cameras ...one facing down from the second floor, one at a 90 degree angle from the side of the door and another one from the mailbox (brick mailbox) facing the door.
Before mounting the doorbell outside I connected a spare AC transformer directly to the two terminals on the doorbell. Configure the doorbell on your workbench with the spare power supply. Make sure the app is set to mechanical chime.
Then re install the power pack and doorbell outside. Have someone push the doorbell button outside.
If you only hear a buzz when the doorbell button is pressed then more than likely need more amperage. Taking the cover off the chime and looking at the plate between the two chimes you will see the model number and voltage which should match the current transformer. Mine chime and transformer were marked 12VAC.
There is a post above relating to what you should see in the power pack.
Not really sure how much a VOM will help you with this endeavor other than validating voltages and amperages. For me it did not help. That said previous to using this doorbell I had added detection circuits for my old analog alarm panel way long time ago. (20 years ago). Back then I had an Optex combo IP / PIR camera facing the door and used geophone sensors buried under the cement walk way. (front door had three cameras ...one facing down from the second floor, one at a 90 degree angle from the side of the door and another one from the mailbox (brick mailbox) facing the door.
Last edited: